I’ll start out with a copy of a “cautionary note” I posted winter, 2004 after first using sili skin just so you know you’re not the only ones who have to pay dues.

"Roughly a year ago, Sili Skin hit the fly shops thanks to Blane Chocklett and Harrison Steeves. I think the idea was to use it to craft a fly version of the deadly sluggo. I had my first "bout" with sili skin this winter during and in between fly fishing shows. I say "bout" because the first couple of times I used it, it stuck to everything but the fly. I had to just get up and walk away from it until persistence finally paid off."

So, be prepared for the initial frustration and be prepared to get up and walk away from it the first few times. Once you get the nack, you'll be crafting amazing looking pattens in record time. Another caution -- sili skin is expensive so unless you can afford an endless supply, keep your patterns small or just use sili skin on a portion of the pattern.

Here’s a simple way to create a realistic sand eel fly using sili skin and e-z body. It’s easy to craft any size from 2 inch mini’s to the largest you’ve seen with this technique. Choosing the right combination of e-z body size and material is the key. In the photo above:

- the smallest sandeel was created with mini e-z body, DNA powder fish fiber and angel hair,
- the next largest with small e-z body, fishair, and angel hair,
- the third largest with medium e-z body, fishair, and mirror flash,
- the largest was made with large e-z body, super hair, and flashabou.

All used mother of pearl sili skin.

The material list for the sand eel shown below is:

Material list: Hook – Mustad C68S SS size 2 Thread – Danville’s ultra fine mono E-Z Body – silver medium Flash – Mirror Flash - pearl Sili Skin – mother of pearl Material – 50 Denier FisHair in polar white, nugget gold, and olive green Eyes – mylar stick on in size 2 Plasti-Dip or Softex

I’ve shown a pair of round nose pliers that I use to bend the hook slightly. This is strictly optional.

Step 1
Slide the e-z body over the hook point about half way. Push the point through the e-z body and slide up onto the shank. Place the hook in the vise. Tie in a few strands of flash and whip finish. The flash should be facing forward. Pull the flash through the e-z body with a piece of mono and secure the flash with a whip finish. Slide the e-z body forward slightly and secure with several wraps.

Step 2
Tie in white fishair on each side of the pattern as shown, clipping any excess and securing with several wraps. Note that the fishair was secured back a bit from the hook eye. Advance the thread to the hook eye and tie in a length of olive/gold blend(either or both may be used depending on the color you want to achieve. Clip the excess, secure with a few wraps, and whip finish.

Step 3
It’s important to use a piece of sili skin that is the same length of the e-z body and wide enough to easily wrap over the top of the pattern and stick to itself underneath. Avoid stretching the sili skin as its tendency is to resume the original shape. Applying while stretched may result in a contorted fly.

Anchor the sili skin just behind the hook eye with a light press. While holding the material straight back with one hand, allow the sili skin to “drape” over the top of the pattern. Fold it over the pattern and with light pressure press it together underneath so it sticks to itself.

Step 4
Remove the pattern from the vise, trim the excess sili skin with sharp scissors and pull it away. Return it to the vise to add mylar eyes and gills using an extra fine sharpie pen. Coat the entire head from the gill marks forward and coat the belly seam with plasti dip or softex and let dry.

The completed fly is shown below after the plasti dip has cured for a half hour. I will typically let them hang out over night prior to fishing.