This is a relatively simple pattern that's
quick to tie and provides a realistic imitation of a peanut bunker.
It's tied using six clumps of material all tied close to the eye
of the hook alternating between the top and bottom of the shank.
No material is attached to the side of the hook. I'm using a blend
of Unique Hair and Angel Hair for this pattern (see "Flash
Blending" on the last page of the Oct, 2001 High Flyer or
on the ASWF web site). I've also used a short shank hook and made
the short shank even shorter using a pair of round nose pliers
to bend the hook. Here's why. (see Step_0)
Step 0
1. In any wide body pattern, the hook acts as a keel so the fly
tracts properly. The bending exaggerates the keel and ensures
optimum tracking.
2. Bending the hook this way moves
the hook point significantly closer to the eye without sacrificing
the gap between the eye and the point. I believe this helps to
minimize fouling. It also creates an exaggerated bend below the
hook point, so when fishing this pattern it's less likely to get
caught on bottom structure (or in my case beach structure since
my back cast tends to find a clam shell now and then).
3. This pattern requires less then
¼ inch of shank for tying, so I've put the rest of the
shank to better use. Some say the bending weakens the hook but
after bending with the round nose pliers, I've tested these hooks
(eagle claw and varivas) with 20lb mono with both sharp jerks
to simulate strip strike and by applying slow pressure till the
mono breaks. Tests were done with a non-slip loop knot. No hook
failures were observed.
Materials:
Thread Danvilleís ultra fine mono
Hook short shank stainless Eagle Claw 254ss or Varivas 990s 1/0
thru 4/0
Flash blend - Unique Hair/Angel Hair blended (Kinky Fibre may
be used in lieu of Unique Hair)
Eyes size 6 epoxy
Plasti-dip (clear) in injector bottle
Marker black permanent
Popsicle stick with a hold drilled in it
Step 1 - Using a 2/0 Eagle Claw 254ss, start
at the eye and wrap back 3/16's inch. It's important to use as
fine a mono thread as possible. I use Danville's ultra fine mono.
(see Step_1)
Step 2 - Starting on the bottom of the shank, attach a length
of the flash blend at the middle with 4 wraps then fold back and
just catch the tip of the fold with 4 more wraps. Move the thread
slightly forward and make 3 wraps. (see Step_2a and Step_2b)wraps.
Step 2a
Step 2b
Step 3 - Rotate the hook. On top of the hook shank attach a length
of blend as in Step2. (see Step_3a and Step_3b)
Step 3a
Step 3b
Steps 4 thru 7 - Rotate the hook and attach the blend the same
way for each step alternating between top and bottom of the shank.
I've used a light blend for the lower part of the fly and darker
for the top. I've also highlighted the fly with a few strands
of just angel hair such as the yellow in the middle and the red
on the throat. Whip finish and cut the thread. (see Step_4 thru
Step_7)
Step 4
Step 5
Step 6
Step 7
Step 8 - Remove the fly from the vise, comb and trim with long
bladed scissors. Try to achieve a rounded belly. (see Step_8)
TIP: I prefer to leave
my fly long and keep the trimming mostly to the belly. Then,
after I've fished the fly for an outing, I'll comb and trim
top and belly, thus keeping the fly neat and symetric but slightly
smaller. I'll repeat this after the next outing and next, and
next. Thus, I make full advantage of the material to imitate
the larger peanut when the fly is first tied but in subsequent
outings, the fly is smaller and smaller. I always have a range
of bunker sizes from large(new) to small(older) which allows
me to match the hatch in size and profile on any day the bass
are feeding on peanuts.
Step 8
Step 9 - Lay the fly down and add a "bunker dot" just
behind and above the hook bend. Attach the eyes at or above
the shank close to the hook eye. (see Step_9)
Step 9
Step 10 - Put the fly back into the vise.
Using Plasti-dip in an injector bottle, inject a liberal amount
to coat the threads and material between the eyes. Now coat
the first 20% of each eye and work around the entire front of
the fly. Rotate the vise a few times so the Plasti-dip doesn't
drip. The Plasti-dip provides all the bonding strength for the
wraps as I've used a minimal number with ultra fine mono. It
also bonds the eyes to each other from the inside. Lastly the
outside coat completes a finish which is highly durable. I have
never had a report of the eyes falling off these flies even
due to bluefish or clam shells!!! By the way, thanks go to Brad
Buzzi who gave me my first container of Plasti-dip over two
years ago at one of our ASWF fly tying meetings .(see Step_10a,
Step_10b and Step_10c)
Step 10a
Step 10b
Step 10c
