Bob Popovics,
Surf Candy.

Designed for durability,
the "Surf Candy" was a beginning of a revolution in fly tying. The way epoxy was used made the difference. Utilizing epoxy throughout the entire length of the hook shank, a streamer became instantly more durable. By bringing back the epoxy to just past the hook bend, fouling was severely decreased. Shaping the epoxy to achieve a fish like silhouette brought a hint of realism to the candy! All these features are associated with the fly.

The earliest models were made of all bucktail, but combining polar bear with the bucktail (Polar bear with bucktail overwing), realism was further enhanced. Now, translucent polar bear fibers disappeared when treated with epoxy, exposing and highlighting flash tied next tot he hook shank that was earlier hidden by the more opaque bucktail strands. Imaginations ran wild…varieties are endless and improvements are ongoing. When you make your epoxy flies, use whatever type materials you think necessary. Natural or synthetics - but keep in mind that the manner in which epoxy is used will determine it's true identity.

Epoxy is not just smeared over materials without concern to shape. The epoxy is manipulated in ways to achieve smooth and realistic shapes. At the same time protecting the materials. Epoxy control is the key to making great looking "candles." Epoxy poses two main tying concerns. (1) Excessive dripping (2) material position cannot be changed after glue hardens. I suggest that you try a two-stage epoxy method. During the first epoxy application, only use enough epoxy needed to flow through all the fibers solidly to the hook shank.

This allows the fly tier time to adjust the wing tot he proper position and even fine tune the shape if needed and not be concerned with the epoxy dripping out of control. Let epoxy dry and apply eyes and maybe paint a silver belly or just draw in gill markings if you like. You're now ready for stage #2. This time apply epoxy liberally. The dripping tendency of freshly mixed epoxy will help you distribute the epoxy easier by turning the hook or changing the tilt position. As it slows, I use the tip of a bodkin to "drag" the drip from one place evenly to another.

This will help you capture the natural smooth lines of natural bait shape. A final, visual check is made to see that the wing is straight out the shank, the epoxy is smooth and dry. Best of all, it just might look like the real thing. *Note: epoxy drying wheels are commonly used to evenly cover fly bodies. Although it has a purpose, a freshly epoxied and properly shaped fly, when put on a wheel too soon, may look a little different when finally dry from what it looked like when you first put it on the wheel - the wheel turns at a constant speed while the epoxy is curing at an increasing time. I suggest to offset this, work the fly on the vise longer so when you finally put it on the drying wheel, it's not likely to change the desired shape.

Hook: 254SS Eagle Claw/800S-811 Tiemco/Trey Combs
Thread: Larva Lace Clear Mono 'Fine'
Underwing: Polar Bear Super Hair
Overwing: Olive Super Hair
Flash: Silver Flashabow or Crystal Flash or Angel Hair
Eyes: Witchcraft Tape Prism Eyes, 3-D Eyes
Belly Trim: Silver paint (Trestor's), Blados Silver foil, Silverleaf marking pens
Body: 5 minute epoxy
Many of the following items are available at your local shop.