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Bob
Popovics, Jiggy
Looking to get a little
more action in your flies? Adding a bit of weight in the right spot
may be the best approach to take. Correct placement of weight on
the shank can do wonders towards making a ho-hum pattern into a
definite winner. The operative phrase here is "correct placement
".
Weight gives better results when it's focused. Whether it's just
behind the hook eye or at the bend, the weight will help shift or
tilt the fly position to better enhance action. Case in point: the
"Clouser Minnow" sports Dumbell lead eyes within the front
third of the shank, Dan Blanton uses lead wire and bead chain in
the same hook area for his "Whistler Series". John Cave
makes the point for rear weight to control hook attitude and wobble
in his "Spoon" fly. These examples all illustrate that
it's not applying weight but where to place it that's important!
In case of the "Clouser", the strategically placed eyes
cause a dipping action upon a pause in the retrieve. The eyes cause
the fly to dip it's nose downward when paused, then straight on
the strip only to dip once again and so on. In contrast, if you
apply lead wire evenly along entire hook shank, you'll only get
a heavy fly.
John Cave's "Spoon" fly uses weight at the bend of the
hook to control the hook ride, and the side to side motion of the
"Spoon". To achieve this, the weight must be focused to
one particular spot!
Two other important points are to be made here about the use of
weight in flies; one, too often weight is used primarily to get
the fly down when that consideration should belong to the choice
of fly line and a leader system. By making the proper line choices,
adding a lightly weighted fly with proper sinking design will make
for a much more practical solution. Two, weight is thought to turn
the hook over, but in fact, it's the wing placement that achieves
that.
The Jiggy follows these principles to the letter. It incorporates
all that has beained so far. Using focused weight, a steering wing,
plus simple and durable design, making the Jiggy a top performer.
Materials: |
| Hook: |
911S Tiemco - 34011 Mustad |
| Thread: |
Larva Lace Clear Mono 'Fine' |
| Wings: |
Bucktail |
| Eyes: |
Witchcraft |
| Trim: |
Flashabou |
| 5 - 30 Minute epoxy, Drying wheel, Lead wire |
| Many of the items are available
at your local shop. |
Also see, Tying
the Jiggy, Instructional video - approx size 8MB. Video
will open in a popup window, if you have a popup blocker be sure
to allow this window.
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Step One
Slide cone to position on hook from
hook point to hook eye. Use about 3 wraps of .30 lead wire and ready
to slide into cone void.

Step Two
With lead inside cone, attach thread directly
behind cone ready to accept lower wing.

Step Three
Cut bucktail straight (no taper) and place
above thread and just against cone.

Step Four
Tie down, keeping thread in the same area.
Also note (with arrow) bucktail wing is totally on the inside of
hook.

Step Five
Tie in Flash.

Step Six
Tie in upperwing (or contrasting color).
Notice how tie-in point is kept small.

Step Seven
With tying thread still in place, apply witchcraft
eye to one side at a time. Now make two to three wraps around eyes
with the mono thread to hold eyes in place.

Step Eight
Tie off thread.

Step Nine
Apply epoxy ovedurability. Put on drying
whe to finish.

Step Ten
Closer look.

Step Eleven
Fin
Step Twelve
IMPORTANT NOTE: The arrow shows importance
of wing placement must be inside of the hook - this will steer hook
to ride up as intended.

Step Thirteen
Showing optional Jiggy head with eye socket
and hook-eye notches


Step Fourteen
Jiggy hh 3-D eye in place - tie fly same
as above but delete eye steps and epoxy over thread behind Jiggy
head to complete.



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