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By Capt. Gene Quigley |
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If you fly fish in Saltwater here in the Northeast, eventually you
will come to grips with the lure of catching large stripers on the
fly. Sure, catching stripers of any size on fly tackle is enjoyable,
but what if I was to tell you that you could catch the striped bass
of a lifetime this spring on the fly. Would you still rather catch
schoolies? I didn’t think so.
Before we get into the tactics and techniques of how to catch
big linesiders on fly tackle this spring, lets define the meaning
of “large”. I am sure various anglers would classify
the words “trophy striper” differently. So what constitutes
a large or trophy striper on fly tackle? Is it ten pounds, fifteen
pounds, thirty pounds? For me it is any fish over 20 lbs.
First and foremost, it is important to first understand that you
will not catch as many big stripers this spring on the fly as you
will smaller fish. If you are in it for the numbers then this type
of fishing is not for you. The simple rationale is that there just
aren’t that many big fish around anymore. For that reason
you will need to think and act more like a hunter rather than a
casual angler. If you are serious about catching large stripers
on fly tackle this spring, here are some proven tactics and techniques
that are sure to put a stiff bend in the long rod this season.
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Go Big
Yes, it is true that elephants eat peanuts, and
there are times when larger stripers feed on small baits. The fact
of the matter is that big striped bass prefer large baits. In looking
at our spring fishery here along the Jersey Shore and New York Bight,
we know that most of these bigger fish do not experience regular
feeding patters during the winter months. Once spring arrives, and
water temperatures begin to warm these trophy stripers will follow,
hunt, and stalk large adult bunker and herring here in our local
waters during their northerly spring migration. With this in mind
you will want to fish long, broad baitfish flies that range in length
from eight to twelve inches.
There are three flies that I carry in my arsenal
when I want to target bigger bass. The first is Bob Popovics’s
bucktail deceiver. This fly is tied with a 4/0 long shank hook and
is constructed entirely of bucktail that starts with long hairs
in the back tie, and is then tapered shorter with each tie in separate
series toward the front of the hook. What I like most about the
bucktail deceiver is that the materials are distributed 360 degrees
all the way around the hook to give the fly a more three-dimensional
look in the water. Nothing breathes better than bucktail, and it
is for this reason that the bucktail deceiver is my number one choice
for a larger herring imitation, especially when fish are chasing
baits in the upper water column.
The second fly that I use is a super long half
& half with larger ¼ oz dumbbell eyes. This fly uses
a combination of long thin saddle hackles and bucktail with lots
of flash running right down the center. The Half & Half is mostly
used when a deep presentation is required and acts as an injured
baitfish bouncing erratically just of the bottom.
The third fly in the arsenal is a larger “high
tie” bunker pattern that has a deep profile. Capt. Dino Torino
of Fin Chaser Charters in Staten Island was one of the first captains
to start using this pattern and his success rate with big fish in
the New York Bight was astronomical. Dino uses synthetic materials
such as Kinky Fiber and blends in lots of flash to make up one of
the most effective bunker flies I have ever seen.
It is important to ensure that the hooks you
use are extra strong and super sharp. I prefer the Varivas 990 4/0
and the Tiempco 600S 5/0 and 6/0 hooks for the Half & Half flies,
Tiempco 911S 4/0 long shank for the bucktail deceiver, and Gamakatsu
Big Game Fly Hook in 8/0 for Dino’s magnum bunker fly.
Color variations for these flies will vary; however
early in the season I have found that these greatest results are
yielded with bright fluorescent colors like chartreuse over white,
yellow, and pink over white.
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Fish Deep
Chances are you will not see the brutish stripers
roaming around on the top of the water column unless they are chasing
large bunker or herring up in the shallows, or, on the surface itself.
For the most part, these larger fish will hold deep in the water
column. Because we are targeting these fish in the springtime, your
main focus should be in and around the back bays and tidal rivers.
One of the key factors in finding these large stripers in the backwaters
is to identify and locate structure that will hold them.
There are two types of structure that will hold
fish along our coast this spring. The first structure is that of
the more obvious. Be it a jetty, bulked, or piling, these types
of structure are generally highly visible, impede out of the water,
and are most likely man made. When fly fishing these perceptible
structure’s you will first need to know the water depth in
which they lye.
The second type of structure is much less obvious,
and usually holds the greatest amount of potential in holding large
linesiders. This structure is that of an underwater nature. Steep
drop offs, sod banks, deep holes or channels, and sand bars all
make up a world of fish holding locals that need to be explored
in order to score big.
Striped Bass are for the most part lazy feeders.
The bigger they get, the lazier they get.
Because these bigger fish tend to lie deep in the water column it
will be important to use a fly line that will present your bait
to the level in which the feeding occurs. As a general rule I will
always start to look in area’s that have a steady current
through deep water or a steep drop off. For these situations 400
to 700 grain-sinking lines will be the lines that are most frequently
used. Choosing between a 400-grain line and a 700-grain line will
all depend on the exact depth and the immediate current speed. When
extreme deep-water presentations are needed, a better choice will
be a 30-ft sinking head of Cortland’s LC-13 or Rio’s
new T-14. These lines sink incredibly fast and should be reserved
for water depths over twenty feet or in shallower waters where fast
currents are present. Work your fly slowly in the currents and allow
it to swing back into the strike zone. I like to use a short erratic
one-handed retrieve as the fly moves through the currents.
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Big Tackle for Big Fish
There is and old saying never show up to a gunfight
with a knife. This holds true when targeting trophy stripers. Make
sure that you use sturdy equipment. Strong graphite ten and eleven
weight fly rods should be the weapons of choice. Your fly reel should
have a smooth drag, be saltwater corrosion resistant, and hold at
least 150 yards of backing. Stripped bass are not known for their
long runs. Rather, what you can expect are explosive busts with
a consistent, powerful headshakes. The critical part of the equipment
equation lies with your leaders and knots that connect them.
Starting at the fly line, I prefer to use a loop-to-loop
connection to the leader by making a small loop in the fly line
by using a double nail knot. Your mono leader should form a loop
in the butt section by using a triple surgeons loop or a bimini
twist. I have found that leaders will fewer connections do not fail
as often as leaders with multiple connections. Therefore, I use
a straight six to eight foot shot of twenty or thirty-pound monofilament
tied directly to the fly. All of your proven knots, such as the
improved clinch, uni knot, or loop knot, will work fine as long
as they are tied well. Always leave a short tag end left on the
knot to allow for stretch in the mono. Constantly look for nicks
or flaws in your leaders. The smallest bur or flaw in the leader
could end the fight before it even starts.
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Winning the Battle
Fighting big stripers on fly tackle requires a cool head, patience,
and common sense. The first challenge at hand is to ensure a strong
hook set. I like to really drive the hook home. Doing so will make
sure your hook penetrates the stripers “sandpaper” like
jaw. Use the line to set the hook rather than the rod. I like to
perform a series of short, sharp strip strikes to drop the hook
in. Keep the rod low and slightly off to the side, then, pull the
fly line tight and repeat until you can feel a good set up.
Once the hook is set let the fish run and apply
pressure by keeping a good bend in the rod low and off to the side.
At not time during the fish should the rod come over your head unless
you have to clear an obstacle suck as a jetty rock or a bulked.
Bringing the rod tip over your head drops slack in the line and
could allow the fish to come loose. Try not to bear down to hard
on the drag. Rather, use a lighter setting and apply pressure with
your palm should the fish need to be slowed down. The fight will
go back and forth, and you will need to have patience by letting
the fish tire before you try to land it.
Depending on where you are standing you will
need to think about the landing spot before the fish is even hooked.
If you are on a jetty, look for and escape route where you can easily
get to a flat rock that is low to the water in order to land the
fish. From the surf, figure out where you plan to beach the fish
once it is ready. If fishing from a boat make sure that you have
a partner or a large net handy to land the fish. Most fights are
lost at the end by making careless mistakes. Taking your time by
looking for or waiting for the best opportunities to make the landing.
This will without doubt pay off in the end.
Sure, its not going to be every day that
we go out and catch trophy stripers on the fly. Take a shot this
spring after you get your fill of schoolies. You never know where
that fish of a lifetime might be lurking.
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